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Photographs of British Algae: Cyanotype Imperfections - Signed

Photographs of British Algae: Cyanotype Imperfections - Signed

by Mandy Barker

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‘In 2012, I found a piece of material in a rock pool that changed my life. Mistaking this moving piece of cloth for seaweed, started the recovery of synthetic clothing from around the coastline of Britain for the next ten years.’
 
Photographs of British Algae: Cyanotype Imperfections is a typology of discarded clothing fragments found around the coast of the UK. A homage to the work of pioneering botanist and photographer Anna Atkins (1799-1871)—the unique cyanotype images in the book mimic different species of marine algae found in waters around Great Britain. Through the creation of this work, photographic artist Mandy Barker hopes to raise awareness of fast fashion, synthetic clothes, and the harmful effect of microfibres in the oceans.

More about this book

Over the course of a decade Barker recovered over 200 ‘specimens’ of clothing from 121 beaches from locations as far north as John O’Groats in Scotland, to Land’s End in the South of England. Items ranging from jackets to dressing-up outfits, wigs and trainers, football shirts to underwear, were salvaged from beaches, rockpools and directly from the sea. The items were representative of millions of tonnes of clothes manufactured and discarded each year—sometimes without being worn at all. Every year, the fashion industry is responsible for more greenhouse gas emissions than all international flights and container ships combined.

For each alternative ‘specimen’ in the book Barker created a photogram of the clothing fragments using the cyanotype process to produce detailed Prussian blueprints. The project is inspired by the work of Victorian botanist and photographer, Anna Atkins who used cyanotypes in her groundbreaking book Photographs of British Algae: Cyanotype Impressions (1843) to produce detailed depictions of botanical specimens. By combining art and science, Atkin’s work illustrated the potential of photography and changed how people looked at science in the 1800s.

‘Seeing the potential to re-create new work in a similar way, I realised I could engage how people view science today, and in connection with the present-day consequences of climate change.’

To coincide with the 180th anniversary of Atkin’s book, Barker painstakingly created a replica of the original publication with 202 illustrations, each with the botanical specimen substituted with found garments or fibres. The publication Photographs of British Algae: Cyanotype Imperfections is a carefully edited version of this replica project and begins with outer garments of clothing, such as a waterproof and parka coat, ending with inner garments of underwear worn closest to the skin.

Published April 2025
199x256 mm
160pp, 76 images
Hardback
ISBN 978-1-915423-79-5

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  • Mandy Barker is a photographic artist whose work involving marine plastic debris for more than 14 years, has received global recognition. Her work has been published internationally by outlets and organisations including National Geographic, TIME, The Guardian, Financial Times, Smithsonian, New Scientist, The Explorer's Journal, UNESCO, British Journal of Photography, VOGUE, and the World Wildlife Fund. Her work has been exhibited world-wide including at MoMA and the United Nations headquarters, New York: V&A Museum, London, and the Science & Technology Park, Hong Kong. Barker was shortlisted for the Prix Pictet Award SPACE (2017), nominated for the Magnum Foundation Fund, LOBA Award, and the Deutsche Börse Foundation Photography Prize 2020. She is a recipient of the 2018 National Geographic Society Grant for Research and Exploration. Her first monograph was Beyond Drifting: Imperfectly Known Animals (Overlapse, 2017) followed by Altered Ocean (Overlapse, 2019). In 2023 Barker was awarded the International Understanding Through Photography Award (IUTP) by the Photographic Society of America. This award annually recognises an accomplished photographer whose images and their presentation have clearly contributed to international understanding among people.

  • ‘I see this book as a discussion point, a call to action, and by publishing the work to circulate and share will reach a wider audience. Whether it ends up on a coffee table, bookshelf, or with someone with the power to implement change, it is my intention that conversation around ‘Photographs of British Algae: Cyanotype Imperfections’ will lead to action and a shift within the fashion industry, with the aim of achieving an impact that will go on to change the world.’

    - Mandy Barker